Last week my wife and I decided to climb East and West Buffalo Peaks. It didn't take long to discover that there is a serious lack of information available for climbing these peaks. With that said, we decided to do some scouting the day before our trip.
(The far left is East Buffalo Peak and the far right is West Buffalo Peak)
We learned a couple of things that will be helpful. First of all, we entered at the following coordinates: N 39 degrees 01.522 and W 106 degrees 05.844. This is a very good spot to start.
On our scouting trip, we made a very difficult bushwhack after about a mile. We learned that much of the information out there is erroneous regarding the forest roads and need to bushwhack. We understood there to be a criss cross of many old forest roads. What we learned was that there are really only two roads that switchback up the ridge covering the first 2.5 miles. The confusing part is that the switch back trails meet several times creating the illusion of many disparate unrelated trails. Here is the key with one notable exception. Always, always stay left on the forest roads. If you stay left, you will naturally follow the main forest road up the ridge. So, if you are bushwacking inside of two miles you have made a big mistake.
OK, now for the notable exception. Right after you start, within a quarter mile, you will run into the main forest road. If you go left, you will find yourself back at your vehicle within 2 or 3 minutes. From here forward, when in doubt go left.
This road will take you 2.4 nice trail miles up the main ridge guarding the approach to East Buffalo Peak. When this road ends a single track trail will begin. Take the trail into the ground willows instead of climbing more steeply into the boulder field. It won't feel quite right, but you will already be at 11,400 feet and there is no need to waste time picking through a boulder field at this point. You need to work your way around the slope while following the trail through the willows if possible. If you miss the trail, just follow the best game trail you can and slowly add elevation. You will be shooting for the saddle between a prominent 12er on your left and East Buffalo Peak. If you climb too quickly at this point you will needlessly waste time in boulder fields.
Ultimately, we were intimidated by the approach to East Buff. It just looks too steep for hikers like us with no climbing experience or gear. But, if you approach from the east and follow the ridge line it is climbable. Unfortunately, we did not make it.
(Picture shows the scary cloud that ultimately boomed thunder and sent us scampering back down to lower ground. This picture looks south from about 12,300 feet.)
The thunder scared us and the hail hurt us. We were at 12,600 feet when we turned back and it was very disappointing. After scouting for 5 miles the first day, we would log 13 miles in our attempt. We ended our pursuit just before we would have climbed the last 700 feet through a long boulder and talus field on the back side of East Buff.
Bummer. But we live for another day. Another try maybe. We verified a decent but broken trail through the willow on the way down. We had a beer and took a nap and explored the Weston Pass area. Check back soon and see my report on the incredible Buffalo Meadows Loop. Twelve miles of beautiful Colorado. Until then, here are a couple more pictures of our trip.
(I ran up the boulder field about 150 feet to snap this shot. That is West Buff in the background with Mr. Thistle in the foreground. Best looking thistle I've ever seen)
(Standing in the willows)
Recent Comments